Theme: Nature
Research on mark-making
Mark making describes the different lines, dots, marks, patterns and texture we create in an artwork. It can be loose and gestural or controlled and neat. Artists use gesture to express their feeling and emotions in response to something seen or something felt. There is different types of mark making. Impressionists use mark making in the form of separate brush marks or dabs of paint to add life, movement and light to their paintings. It is also a way of expressing emotions, artists use expressing mark making to create purely abstract artwork which do not necessarily refer to anything in the real life world. Mark making can take on a number of forms using very different materials. For example, scribbling on a piece of paper using a crayon, making patterns in the sand or mud using a stick, or painting shapes with their fingertips or handprints. Impressionists used mark makings to add things like movement, light, and generally, life, to their artwork.
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A variety of marks adds interest to your work and helps the viewer's eye move around the surface. This encourages the viewer to engage in your work and become emotionally connected.
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Mark Bradford compares his process of making paintings using materials he finds in his local urban environment to ‘those tagged up, repainted, tagged up, sanded, and repainted walls you pass every day in the street’. In paintings such as May Heaven Preserve You From Dangers and Assassins he uses layers of ripped advertising posters to create richly textured surfaces of marks which to him are like ‘reading the streets through signs’.
Mindmap
Exploring motif ideas and making
Mood Board & Theme Inspiration Board
Mood Board
For my mood-board, i wanted to
incorporate different elements of nature and for my theme i wanted to focus on butterflies and spiders and spiderwebs. I feel that this motifs of this insects found in nature is really interesting to be found on garments. I found inspiration from other designers who have used similar motifs.
For my colour chart, I wanted to
see autumn colour tones that
highlights nature for me.
My main intention of my mood board
is to preserve nature by not only
saving plants but to help animals and
insect before they get extinct due
to selfish reasons of humans.
Inspiration Board (Finding a theme)
Final motifs combining different motifs together
SUN PRINTING WITH CYANOTYPE
Reflection:
A cyanotype is a photo process where specially treated paper reacts to UV light (the sun’s rays) and exposes the paper. Specifically, the method involves placing foliage on cyanotype paper that turns blue when exposed to the sun, leaving beautiful white shapes of foliage behind.
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For my sun printing, I wanted to use big leaves and flowers that was found under nature. The first try I was not too happy with the result because it was over-exposed to the sun and the leaves shrunk due to the exposure. So the shapes that came out of it was not as defined. My second try was better, I was more contented as the shape came out great. However, the cyanotype colour was not as dark as the previous one because I did not expose it to the sun as much.
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First try
Second try
Designers who have used cyanotype sun printing for their designs:
MAISON MARGIELA FLORAL PRINT CREW KNITBLUE CYANOTYPE PRINT
How does this technique link to innovation from nature?
Cyanotype sun printing is a method which uses the environmental elements of sunshine and water thus creating a match of medium and content. The chemicals used in cyanotype have a lower toxicity compared to other photographic methods. Thus I believe that using elements such as leaves, flowers, twigs from nature and using a chemical not harmful to the environment is an innovation from nature.
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POUNDING
Reflection:
Pounding is the art of transferring the natural pigment of flowers and plants onto cloth or paper ​through the act of physically hammering the two mediums together.
For my pieces, I tried to take darker coloured leaves and flowers to create a darker pigment. I used leaves and some orchids. I never knew that the colours of the flowers and leaves are so pigmented that they can reflect on to the fabric. I manage to get colours such as brown, purple, some yellow tones and green and tied it back to my theme of butterflies. This colours are quite commonly seen in butterflies.
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TIE DYE - SHIBORI
Tying the fabric for dyeing
How does this technique link to innovation from nature?
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Flower pounding hammered until the dye and patterns are imprinted on the fabric surface. Instant print pattern is produced by pounding which is very exciting for the designers. Flowers are really important to nature in terms of appearance and the plant cycle, thus using an important element of nature as a sustainable technique is definitely an innovation from nature.
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Preparation of the dyes
Dylon dyes
Natural dyes
Polyester dye
Shibori Dye Results
Triangular folding technique
Itajime shibori technique
Scrunching technique
Using ice cream stick
Stitching and gathering technique
Dyeing result from natural dye made from blue pea and celery. Technique used: swirl technique
Boiled shibori technique done with polyester on the left and organza on the right. Dyed using polyester dyes.
Creating tie dye with tie dye kit at home to analyse the difference between tie dye and shibori dyeing
Bleaching dark coloured fabric with shibori tying technique. triangular folding tying technique on the left and swirl technique on the right.
Bleaching denim fabric with shibori tying technique. Itajime square tying technique on the left and swirl technique on the right.
Reflection on shibori dyeing:
Shibori is the Japanese word for a variety of ways to resist-dye textiles. There are countless ways to create the effect. The name 'shibori' is derived from the Japanese word “shibori” meaning to wring, squeeze or press. And the main point of difference between shibori and ordinary tie dye is that it requires the use of thread to create the patterns as opposed to just literally tying the cloth. There are many different techniques to resist and create the effects in shibori dyeing. I enjoyed this lesson the most cause I enjoy dyeing and I think its interesting to find out the final outcome when we unveil it. We also used natural dyes which we prepared as a class using celery for green pigment, blue peas for blue, dragon fruit for red and coffee for brown. Even though the colour was faint, the dye did come out at the end when it dried. My only side back was that my black cotton fabric when i dropped into the bleach pail did not absorb the bleach and there was no result seen. I think that it may be because it is not 100% cotton which is why there was no result seen. During dyeing, sometimes if they are not tied tight enough it becomes loose at the resist part that should not get the dye will end up absorbing the dye. Interesting thing is that shibori dyeing got popular for not only the hemp dying of the lower class, but also for decorating silk for the aristocracy, who would commission artisans to create stunning kimonos.
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Designers who have used dyeing for their designs:
DION LEE
SHIBORI SHORT-SLEEVE SHIRT
How does this technique link to innovation from nature?
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Using natural dyes from elements of nature such as fruit, high pigment coloured flowers, plants and vegetable is definitely an innovative and creative way to create dyes. Natural dyes are naturally biodegradable, non-toxic and non-allergenic. Provided they are processed in a way that avoids the use of harmful chemicals during the dyeing and finishing process, they have a much lower environmental impact than synthetic dyes.
BATIK
Final pieces
This was a failed piece because the
motifs were too small and it was hard
to outline with the canting tool. When, applying the colour, the dye was too diluted and it smudged around. In conclusion, I did not like this piece as much because it was not what I envisioned. When the artwork dried, the colours turned out too light.
Failed piece
Reflection
Batik is a type of resist printing process in which wax is applied to the fabric in specific areas. When the wax hardens, the fabric is submerged in dye. The wax prevents the dye from reaching the fibres. The fabric is then boiled to remove the wax. The first batik I did was the one with the butterfly in the centre, I had a lot of difficulties manoeuvring the canting tool, it caused wax spillage on my artwork which is why some lines are thicker. I also wanted to add in the crackled effect for the background to make it look more interesting. Wax is applied with the brush on to the area intended to be crackled. The cloth is then crumpled and crushed to produce the uneven crackle effect. Unfortunately, I think the dye we used were a little diluted which made the dye smudge and it was not as dark as it was supposed to be. However, the second piece I tried with a number of motifs on it was a better try as I got a hang of the canting tool and the colours were darker. At the end to remove the wax for the crackled effect we boiled the fabric and for those that does not have much wax, we can just iron it out. Batik is a fascinating craft but one that many people hesitate to try because the old process is tedious and time consuming. I think what is interesting about batik is that, its simplicity and the fact that you don't have to be artistic in the conventional sense to produce beautiful results.
Designers who have used batik for their designs:
DRIES VAN NOTEN
SPRING SUMMER 2010 READY TO WEAR
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How does this technique link to innovation from nature?
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The innovation outcome of batik block was based on the design development of the ideation process, where a series of shapes, traditional Malay motifs, and block design were created and constructed for future preferences. Through research, there is an increasing desire to use natural dye sourced from the environment to create the colours in batik art. The result of batik dyed with natural dye melds neatly with the “go-green movement". It is a sustainable product that is aesthetically unique and subtle. The pieces are exquisite, hand crafted and dominated by deep glaucous and rich ochre shades.
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Research on Appliqué methods:
Appliqué means to apply one piece of fabric to another. Usually this is a fabric background with shapes of some sort applied on top. The aesthetic of appliqué is often developed further by using a variety of colours to contrast. Appliqué can be used on many surfaces and can be a decorative way to finish off many objects such as cushions, scarves, bags and clothing. Most surfaces will be able to take appliqué in some form.
3 types of appliqué methods:​
1. Machine Appliqué
When a sewing machine is used to create the appliqué technique of stitching a piece of fabric to a background. You may choose to use one of the stitch variations possible on your particular model of machine to apply your top piece of fabric to the bottom layer.
2. Hand Appliqué
Hand appliqué is often chosen for quilting projects. Hand appliqué is when a shape is sewn onto a background layer with a needle and thread. It can be done in a basic or more decorative way, depending on your experience. It is perfect for creating dimensional designs on your fabric.
3. Fused Appliqué
If you are short on time or are less experienced, an iron-on adhesive such as a fusible web can be used. The fabric shapes you create can be fused to the background fabric using this medium and then if desired finishing stitches by hand or machine can be added.
Types of appliqué:
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1. Smooth edge appliqué
Using a sewing machine, the raw edges of the fabric which is being applied to the background can be tidied by stitching around the shape with a stitch chosen to leave a tidy finish which is smooth and neat to the observer. A zig-zag stitch stitched closely together works well.
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2. Raw Edge Appliqué
This method of applique is perfect for smaller projects, and essentially means sewing pieces of fabric onto a background piece of fabric without finishing or turning the edges. It can be done by hand or machine and can create some sophisticated designs without the extra work.
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3. Reverse Appliqué
Instead of sewing fabric shapes onto the top of a background layer, with this style you layer fabrics together and then stitch a pattern on top. Then you cut away parts of the fabric to reveal the shape and colour of the fabric below.
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4. Decorative Appliqué
This method is open to many variations and interpretations. It can be achieved using a machine or by hand. If you are using a sewing machine, you may use the different styles of stitching available on your model to make your piece aesthetically pleasing.
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5. Multi-needle Hoop Applique
This is perfect if you’re more advanced and want to create a larger hoop design using your machine. Placement stitches are created on the design, and the background fabric is repositioned so that each section is accurately stitched.
EMBROIDERY & APPLIQUÉ
Trying out embroidery stitching techniques at class
1st Embroidery Appliqué
2nd Embroidery Appliqué
Reflection
Embroidery is an art form that uses a needle, a thread and other items, rather than a brush, paint, pen or pencil. Embroidery is often included in historical paintings, but it is reflected as a detail rather than the subject itself. During class, I found the stitching techniques quite challenging especially the looping part, feather stitch and blanket stitch. However, when I tried the embroidery by myself I managed to practice the stitches and I realised I am really more comfortable with chain stitch and daisy stitch. So I decided to use more of that in my embroidery. For my first artwork, I loved how the spiderweb turn out with the beads because it looks like water droplets. I also wanted to focus on the butterfly more which is why I added more beads to it to enhance the look of it. For my second embroidery, I seeked the lecturer's advice and made improvements from the first piece of embroidery. I received feedback that my first embroidery was too crafty, I took the advice into consideration and did my second piece thinking of it as a fabric that will be used for an actual garment. For my second piece, I incorporated reverse appliqué, embroidery and a little bit of beading to make it look more cohesive. I am really glad with the outcome of this turned out and with the chain stitch embroidery it looks really neat and tidy. The reverse appliqué I used a tie dye fabric underneath the black cotton fabric and i cut out shapes of leaves, with the butterfly in the centre it looks like its surrounded by nature of leaves.
Designers who have used embroidery for their designs:
MIU MIU PUFF SLEEVE COLLARED TOP
(EMBROIDERY COLLAR)
Designers who have used embroidery for their designs:
GANNI EMBROIDERED
WESTERN BOOTS
How does this technique link to innovation from nature?
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The emphasis on sustainability has grown in an eco-friendly embroidery environment. Embroidery is a technique that is celebrated in the fashion world and it consumes a lot of time and effort of the artisans to complete a well embroidered garment. Embroidery gives you that extra professional touch that cannot be achieved with printing. This is sustainable because it instills equality, gives the artisans a source of income. They are also able to integrate their skills into their jobs.
SASHIKO AND BORO TEXTILES
Research
Sashiko is a traditional Japanese embroidery style what dates back to the edo period (1615 – 1868). It was mostly used by the working class farming and fishing families as to make stronger more practical workwear. A worn-out piece was stitched with layers of old cloth, producing a sturdy garment passed down through generations. By the Meiji Era (1868-1912), this folk textile was a well-established craft.
The generic style of sashiko embroidery follows a geometric pattern divided into five main kinds. Moyozashi uses running stitches to create linear designs, while in hitomezashi, the structures emerge from the alignment of many single stitches made on a grid. Kogin, which means small cloth, is a type of darned embroidery from the Tsugaru district of Honshu. Shonai sashiko, which comes from the Shonai region of Yamagata prefecture, has straight lines that cross each other. And if the art uses indigo-dyed threads, it is called kakurezashi.
The most popular Japanese embroidery patterns: fish scales, diamonds, mountains, bamboo, persimmon leaves, arrow features, pampas grass, shippo-tsunagi and interlocking geometric shapes. Sashiko thread is quite different from an ordinary embroidery thread; the yarn of the sashiko thread at the time of use is given a slight twist to increase its strength. Sashiko mending sometimes requires knotting the thread before sewing the cloth, but there are different schools of thought, predominately based on the type of fabric in use.
What is Boro, and How is it Different from Sashiko?
Sashiko and Boro are both intertwined in history but not interchangeable. Sashiko is a form of stitching, a process of needlework. The Boro is the result of continuous & ultimate repetition of Sashiko. Sashiko refers to the style of embroidery, whereas the word Boro meaning rags or tattered cloth and indicates the textiles used rather than how they are put together. Boro can be best defined as the mindful Japanese art of mending textiles, while Sashiko is a form of sustainable embroidery to strengthen the fabric. Boro textiles are restored by overlapping and stitching spare or discharged scraps of fabric together, essentially using a sashiko stitch, to reinforce the material.
The thread used for making boro is the same as sashiko, primarily because boro mending deals with old vintage fabrics. The tightly spun yarn of standard line thread would tear the antique instead of unifying the garment. A valued vintage piece of sashiko often incorporates some Boro patches without appearing to be a patchwork, blending as a part of the garment.
What fabric is used for sashiko?
COTTON INDIGO FABRIC
Sashiko works best on a linen or cotton blend with a loose weave. Because sashiko thread is thick, a fabric that is too tightly woven will show puckering more easily. While sashiko mending has origins in cotton fabric, you may also try denim.
Over the years, sashiko's resurgence has seen even fashion veterans like Issey Miyake use sashiko in his collections, and it has appeared on the runway for Maison Margiela. If fashion is a barometer of the culture in which it’s born then truly Japanese sashiko embroidery is one traditional craft skill that is on the up.
Geometric patterns
designed by myself
Sashiko and Boro Result
Reflection:
For my Sashiko and Boro textile, I wanted to use simple geometric patterns and lines such as octagons and lines to make it look like an unfinished spiderweb in the making. I also used spiderweb patterns and aligned them together to make a pattern out of it. For my fabric choice, since I am working on up-cycling denim fabric, I mixed and matches different types of denim fabrics and patched them together. I used different elements such as pockets, waistbands and jeans legs and patched them into an A3 size textile fabric. It was quite challenging at the start when I was doing the Sashiko embroidery and the shapes did not turn out to be how I visioned, it was mainly because the denim fabric was dark-coloured and i could not outline the shapes properly, so the lines was not as nice as I thought it would be. I also tried to simplify my geometric shapes because of the thickness of the fabric it was a little hard to stitch them as denim is a very thick fabric and some parts I had 2-3 layers bonded together. Since there were too much Sashiko embroidery to do, I used some bonding paper to hold the fabrics down together more and I felt like with the bonding paper it was more secured. I did enjoy the process of doing Boro and Sashiko together, even though it was very time consuming, I am happy with the final result and it looks well put together. I did not want my textile piece to be prim and proper, I did want it to look messy with the stitching to give it more of a streetwear feel. I liked how the stitching lines were all around but at the same interconnecting together, while doing the embroidery I did feel like it was messy but once I was done with all the stitching, it looked very cohesive together.
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Designers who have used Sashiko/Boro for their designs:
Y'S PRE-FALL 2018
Designers who have used Sashiko/Boro for their designs:
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA COUTURE FALL 2011
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How does this technique link to innovation from nature?
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Mending and patching clothes is a hot new trend in the ‘slow fashion’ or sustainable fashion movement, and one of the prettiest ways to do it is with the traditional Japanese skill of ‘sashiko’. Sashiko and Boro are traditional japanese technique that gives a new lease of life into used and loved items. Boro came to signify the clothing worn by the commoners, who would lovingly repair and reuse their garments instead of throwing them away. With the progress of such techniques and crafts, it reduces unwanted garments and gives people a sense of income and living.
UPCYCLING PLASTICS
Triangular based bag made with recycled plastic bags, bubble wraps and zip loc bags.
Corset shape inspired tube top made with recycled plastic bags, bubble wraps and left-over ribbons.
Reflection:
Elsa Schiaparelli was an early adopter, using plastic zippers for decorative effect in the early 1930s. Plastics and other man-made synthetics have made progress in the fashion world. Transparent materials like plastic have often been used to communicate futurism where in today’s eco-consciousness is the use of up-cycled plastics. Martin Margiela was way ahead of this trend when he turned a plastic shopping bag into a top in one of his early collections and a cash-strapped Alexander McQueen included a plastic-wrap dress in his spring 1995 collection.
For my plastics project, I did a bag and a corset shape top. For the bad, I did it as a triangular shaped bag with a rectangular base, I used a Ziploc opening as the bag opening to fuse them together. Later then I realised that fusing the plastics was not as secured as sewing the plastics. Thus to secure the Ziploc opening, I sewed them together and it became more functional. However, I do have to work on the strap as the plastic is very light and if there are heavy items kept inside, it can result in the strap breaking off. Maybe I can add a metal grip to fasten the strap.
​For my top, I used two different plastic bags. I cut them into four pieces, the black plastic bag on the front and back and the pink one at the side. Again, fusing them was not as secured as I thought it would be, so I sewed up the side seam and reinforce the front and back. At the back, I added some holes and used ribbons to tie up the back together. I loved how I was inspired by corset to do this and it looks somewhat similar. I also added some bubble wraps in the front to make it more tactile and give the garment some texture. The use of plastic is a key issue in the design industry right now, as the world wakes up to the effects that plastic pollution is having on the earth.
Plastic trend on fashion runways, different ways different fashion designs used plastic to interpret their designs.
MOSCHINO FALL 2017
ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING 1992
How does this technique link to innovation from nature?
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Up-cycling end-of-life plastic waste into fashion garments is definitely a sustainable option. It reduces plastic waste that is non-biodegradable and helps the environment. The use of recycled plastics can help brands to meet green demands by consumers and shareholders, and reduce their carbon footprint. We have to change the way we interact with nature and find solutions that assure our planet’s lifespan. By up-cycling plastics that are non-biodegradable and changing them into fashion garments, it sends a strong message to the consumers on how plastic can be harmful to the environment.
SUSTAINABILITY PROJECT
Exploring on digital print...
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What is digital print?
Digital printing refers to methods of printing from a digital-based image directly to a variety of media.
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Why did I use digital print?
- Higher Quality
Unlike screen printing, where the image may lose some sharpness or clarity, digital printing allows for a high resolution image with cleaner edges
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- Digital print has a faster result
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- Reduced waste. As digital printing performs directly onto the garment, it allows for the avoidance of screen printing consumables - therefore producing less waste and energy.
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- Cost effective as compared to other types of printing.
As for my design, I designed a cut out vest as my outerwear. It is intended to be made with recycled denim garments for the full garment. For the inside finishing, I was thinking of adding a lining for a cleaner finishing and this could then be added as digital printing for the inner lining. It would give an overall nicer finishing and appearance. Thus I came up with some digital prints work that was inspired by architectural building turn into motifs for the print.
Final digital print works
Fixing the print as lining into my technical flats and choosing the appropriate print
I chose three of my favourite print to morph into my design.
I really liked how they looked when I put the print into the technical flats and imagine it as the lining outside. The play of the motifs with different variations really made the pattern more interesting and with the colours it made the print more alive. My favourite so far out of the three would be the second one, the purple one, I think the pattern is very abstract and unique. It gives off a futuristic feel, very sci-fi and with the purple tones it gives a holographic effect.
What have I learnt from textile making this semester?
This module is one that really made me explore and think out of the box. The history of textile design goes back thousands of years. Because of the perishability of textiles, early examples of textile design are rare. By learning the different methods that links to nature and how it can be a sustainable option, makes me want to incorporate it into my designs in the future to follow a sustainable future. Textile making was definitely not an easy process, there was a lot of times when I did not like the final outcome and I had to redo the entire process to ensure the final outcome is close to my vision. In this entire process, my favourite activity was the sun printing cyanotype process as it was something I was not aware of and the results that was produced were really interesting and to think that we used all natural elements to achieve the result was really eye opening.